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Global Brands Seek Clarity on Xinjiang


Ms. Apter said that while no Eileen Fisher garments were being made in Xinjiang and that it wasn’t getting fabric or yarn from the region, the corporate didn’t know whether any of the cotton fiber it was using may very well be traced to Xinjiang.

“Two years of pandemic and a deteriorating political situation made it unattainable to totally vet what is occurring on the bottom,” Ms. Apter said.

How the Supply Chain Crisis Unfolded

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The pandemic sparked the issue. The highly intricate and interconnected global supply chain is in upheaval. Much of the crisis may be traced to the outbreak of Covid-19, which triggered an economic slowdown, mass layoffs and a halt to production. Here’s what happened next:

A discount in shipping. With fewer goods being made and fewer individuals with paychecks to spend at the beginning of the pandemic, manufacturers and shipping corporations assumed that demand would drop sharply. But that proved to be a mistake, as demand for some items would surge.

Demand for protective gear spiked. In early 2020, the complete planet suddenly needed surgical masks and gowns. Most of those goods were made in China. As Chinese factories ramped up production, cargo vessels began delivering gear across the globe.

Then, a shipping container shortage. Shipping containers piled up in lots of parts of the world after they were emptied. The result was a shortage of containers within the one country that needed them probably the most: China, where factories would begin pumping out goods in record volumes.

Demand for durable goods increased. The pandemic shifted Americans’ spending from eating out and attending events to office furniture, electronics and kitchen appliances – mostly purchased online. The spending was also encouraged by government stimulus programs.

Strained supply chains. Factory goods swiftly overwhelmed U.S. ports. Swelling orders further outstripped the supply of shipping containers, and the associated fee of shipping a container from Shanghai to Los Angeles skyrocketed tenfold.

The corporate debated what to do.

“You realize, possibly this farm got certified, but we’ve no approach to independently audit, the persons are intimidated, the auditors don’t need to work on the bottom anymore, it’s unattainable to essentially go by that,” Ms. Apter said, recalling the discussion.

By 2021, Eileen Fisher had removed any Xinjiang cotton fiber from its supply chain, she said.

L.L. Bean, the privately held outdoors retailer based in Maine, said in an announcement that it had ceased sourcing from textile mills in Xinjiang in 2020 and “completely removed ourselves out of the cotton production process” in early 2021.

“We have now full confidence in our due diligence process to state that none of our products are made with Chinese cotton or use forced labor,” the corporate said.

The selections by smaller, privately owned corporations to depart China have been more straightforward than they were for larger retailers, which have cultivated a lucrative consumer market within the country. For fast fashion corporations like H&M and luxury brands like Burberry, which has also been the goal of boycotts, the choice ultimately amounts to picking a side: China or the remaining of the world.

“It’s very hard for a large company,” said Michael Posner, who’s the chair of the Fair Labor Association, a nonprofit organization that has worked with corporations like Apple to analyze employee conditions at suppliers’ factories.

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