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Watching Qatar’s World Cup, Off the Field


DOHA, Qatar — For those who’re watching the World Cup from home, you may develop into numb to the brilliance of athletic feats that drive the world’s fascination. But away from the stadiums, the World Cup — every World Cup — has a definite local flavor. Removed from the manicured lawns of the tournament’s eight gleaming stadiums, Recent York Times photographers documented the flavour of the primary Arab World Cup.

The fans are the heartbeat of any World Cup. They arrive from all around the world, in various numbers, but some countries — like Mexico, Argentina and, this 12 months, Saudi Arabia — really represent. Flags and scarves and jerseys carry hope and optimism through the streets and the market, nevertheless it doesn’t all the time end well: Mexico is out, despite earning its first win, 2-1 against Saudi Arabia, on Wednesday night in Lusail.

Where do all of the million-plus fans go after they’re not filling the stadiums with their voices and drumbeats? Fan zones, just like the ones in Doha and Lusail, offer gathering places crammed with entertainment and spectacle.

Despite the variability of national loyalties, it’s not unusual for rooting interests to blur into one: fans from Morocco joining forces with supporters from Saudi Arabia; Americans posing for photographs with Iranians; the colours of Brazil and England at either end of the identical bench.

The Souq Waqif, Doha’s purposefully vintage marketplace, is one of the popular destinations for World Cup visitors. The normal market, rebuilt to look old, offers loads of authentic dining options, but additionally shops selling clothes, spices, household goods and, in the event you’re out there for one, falcons.

Soccer pervades every scene nowadays, from children dashing forwards and backwards with a ball at their feet to adults in thobes showing off their skills on a patch of artificial turf.

Accommodations vary nearly as much because the individuals who stay in them. A cruise ship, docked along Doha’s waterfront, has been repurposed as a hotel for a month. Tents on the Al Khor fan village were being marketed as “Arabian camping”; you may book one, but it’ll set you back greater than $400 an evening. A more cost-sensitive option is considered one of the parks crammed with rows of shipping containers closer to the motion. Looming behind all of it, in downtown Doha, are the highest-priced options. The Katara Towers in Lusail comprise two hotels. One is home to FIFA’s executive class at some point of the World Cup.

Stepping away from the shine of Doha, there’s one other side of Qatari life in Al Khor, the country’s second-biggest city but one faraway from the World Cup’s hustle and bustle in Doha.

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